it's all relative

i haven't written in awhile, and probably wont in the short-term, but in the mean time, i saw this the other day when i came into our office's kitchen. It's a bag of basmati rice, or "Super Special Rice," as it read,s from a Pakistani company, and their logo, it a tank. Well, I guess in this part of the world the marketing genius feel this is something folks out here can relate to...Funny, but kinda twisted too....


hitting too close to home

So yet again, I find myself being too close to the headlines...today at 1430, I was in my room, watching TV in bed, as it's Friday, our one day of the week off, and BOOOM. I knew immediately it was a bomb of some sort and very close by.


Hmmm, what to do, I though. As I gathered some belonging (my laptop, a book, personal docs and change of clothes), and my flap jacket and helmet, almost immediately, two of our guards ran upstairs with AK47s in hand, as my room is next to the outdoor veranda. I, doing exactly what you are not suppose to do, which is get closer to the incident location, also went out on the veranda. We saw swarms of people running out of one of the largest super markets in Afghanistan, Finest, which is literally 3 buildings away from my house. Glass and debris were strewn all over the street. I saw people wounded, and I saw the surrounding shopkeepers pulling all their stock inside and close up their spots.


"What do you guys think happened?" I asked the guards. "We don't know yet, could be a gas tank..." But then we heard our neighbors screaming at us "Suicider! It's a suicider!" One of the guards looked back at me and said "It's better you go inside." I wanted to protest and say "No, I wanna watch!" but I realized, this was no joke, so I did, although only for a about 15 minutes, and then I went back outside and watch for another two hours, and that's when all the chaos really began, as this video shows, with my house making an appearance a few times:




It's been about 7 hours since the incident, and we still don't know much. What we've heard is a suicider went in there, open fired a bit, (and I did hear shots before the explosion), threw a grenade on the ground, and proceeded to blow hismself up next. The Taliban claimed responsibility immediately, and in their statement said they were targeting the infamous security contractor, Blackwater, now known as Xe. We haven't heard any reports confirming the presence of Xe staff at Finest as of yet. Although a reported 6 people have died, including a baby and there were shops on our street whose glass got blown, in some sense, we were all lucky that the explosion happened inside Finest. The building itself, although heavily damaged, contained the explosion's shock-waves and any shrapnel from penetrating the surrounding area. My house being so close would definitely have suffered damages had the bomb been detonated outside, similar to what happened to my office as a result of the December 2009 bomb.


This one hit too close to home, literally b/c it was so FREAKIN close. But for me it's also beyond what all the other ex-pat in Kabul are thinking, "OMG, I shop there all the time." For me, it's beyond my insanely close proximity and regular frequency of the store. I have been going to Finest since they first opened in 2008, and those guys all know me. I've watch them as they've expanded the business to from one level that just sold food to two stories selling clothes, appliances, DVDs and household goods, and watched as they opened another location across town. They've always been so good to me, such as letting me come back to pay later when I didn't have enough cash in hand, or specially ordering Iranian yogurt for me. And I've ALWAYS told them how proud they should be that Finest is one of the few true indigenous symbols of progress in Afghanistan, meaning they developed the business on their own, it's not some aid project "brought to you by the American people." They have the best selection of local and international products (and i mean from local almonds to tortillas to Thai coconut juice). They are the first store in Afghanistan that had bar code scanners, electronic receipts and accepted credit cards! They have hired women to work behind their counters, not something u often see even in Kabul. They've even started selling their own brand of take-away salads and baked goods! As I witnessed each of these changes, I always said to the owner, "MashAllah, you guys are doing well; good for you." And he would always graciously but humbly said thank you. Today I had to watch him get carried out of the store by two men, his blood dripping on to the street from sustained injuries.


So to me, the Finest stores really represent a true success story and while I feel sadness obviously for those who lost their lives today and their families, I dunno, for some reason it's the Finest family that I feel the most sorry for. The store is a place where all people, both Afghans and internationals could go and have a choices various products and access to wide spectrum of goods. Materialistic or consumeristic? Maybe in some sense. But it's that fact that Finest represented options in a country that for many years was only trying to survive. That people can't even enjoy the little tiny bits of progress without having to worry about some ignorant suicider walking straight out of Friday prayers just to blow himself up (and I assure u, based on the timing, that's exactly what happened), killing innocent people, including an three year old Afghan child, that's what's really hurting my heart today....

anaarita


anaarita = cute little pomegranate; combining the persian for pomegranate, anaar (انار), and the general rule of diminutives in Spanish of adding "ito/ita" to the end of a word to indicate smallness and/or affection.

that my mind thinks up a word like this totally captures my CalifornIrani background, no?!

This is the BEST time to be in Afghanistan if only for one reason: it's pomegranate season! I have written about my adventures with afghan pomegranates here, but thought to also share a few recent flicks. I spotted the above baby anaarita tree a couple weeks ago, it was the last relatively warm weekend in Kabul and a reminder of what is about to come: cold weather, but also bowls filled with yummy pomegranate!! The below is from a few days ago, taken in the morning as i was preparing my lunch (yes, i still have eid henna on my nails!)



YUM

Champions of the World

Tonight the San Francisco Giants won the World Series. CHHAAAA OOOOO!!!


So the truth is, I am a sports fan. And when it comes to baseball, which i played (well softball) through middle school and high school, i'm a San Francisco GIANTS fan. And tonight, my boys won the world series. No one around me really cares, and those that do, supported the Texas Rangers (eat it, Bush!). but i love the giants, have for years, and it's been a joy to see them take it home this season, finally, after loosing most recently in 2002, after everyone in the US hated on the team b/c of Barry Bonds (SF loves u Barry), and especially, since this was not a team of all-star players. It was a team of misfits, outcasts and overlooked players, who rallied together, kept their egos under control, had impeccable timing, good coaching, the BEST FANS EVER, and were maybe even helped out a little bit by the Sunah of the beard. ;)

Plus, Texas vs. San Francisco, I'm sure you can figure out the underlying social significance and political dynamics to this world series (eat it, Bush!). The Afghans kinda appreciate the victory when I explain that GWB owned the Rangers...




This picture was taken on Mission and 22nd st, three blocks away from my old apartment. so i know If i was back home in San Francisco, it would have been a night full of memories. But it's all good. I'm sitting at my desk in Kabul, having a little party all in my heart and mind....who am i kidding, i really really wish i was home right now.


Thank you, San Francisco Giants, for taking it all the way for us tonight...



...and keepin it SUKA FREE for the SFC, even if we do get a lil too hyphy sometimes (think i actually recognize people in this last vid!)



beyond the burqa

Months ago, Old School Hejabi encouraged me to do a piece on fashion in Kabul, showing how women express themselves in Afghanistan outside of the stereotypical perception: the burqa. I have been working on it and hopefully one day will do a proper post on the topic. The hardest part has been to amass enough real life photos. But the other night, awake at 2:00 AM I flipped on the TV. Because I can speak Farsi, I have no problem watching the local channels and actually watch regularly to strengthen my comprehension of the Afghan accent on Persian, although, honestly, I always gravitate towards the Iranian dramas... but anyway, it occurred to me that many of the women on TV reflect the current fashion sense in Kabul, and it's a lot easier to take pics of them than on the street! So here is a taste of what is fashion in Afghanistan is like, beyond the burqa (which i realized is totally a cliché title to use, but hey, it's too perfect!).


First let me clarify that a lot of non-halal stuff in reference to the way women should dress by Islamic standards does make it on Afghan TV. Most of the time, especially in the CRAP Indian soap operas shown, they just "censor" what shouldn't be seen, like this:





As you can see, the hair is okay; go figure! And both these pics are of Afghan women from abroad. But in the case of this post, I'm just focusing on images of local women on locally produced TV shows.

So these two ladies are what originally gave me the idea. This is from a cooking show, where an older woman is teaching a younger woman how to cook various dishes (notice the Aunty is wearing sunglasses on her head!).



Now usually, the younger girl is wearing very tight and flashier stuff, but the last time I saw the show, she was playing it down a bit more...



These next three do a better job of showing what a Kabuli fashionista would wear, skinny jeans with either a skirt or an Iranian style manteau over it, and a loose & colorful head scarf.






This next series is from a commercial for Sogol Jam. This is a locally produced commercial. The premise is: this hot chick is shopping,



and there is also a young guy in the shop and he is checking her out



and she's checking him out, it's getting really intense now



and finally he starts walking up to her, but as he approaches her, he reaches forward and....goes for the Sogol Jam instead of talking to her; he was mesmerized by the jam!



Her outfit, specifically her scarf, is more the style of an Iranian girl in Tehran pushing the limits than Afghan style, but still it's interesting and even more interesting that the Afghan girl in Kabul wouldn't go to jail for this 'fit like the Tehrani would...although her reputation could get tarnished and perhaps she'd get murdered...yes, but more on that at the end of this post...

The next pictures is from a show I caught this morning. The one on the right is the hostess and the one of the left is some kind of Quaranic recitation champion:



Now you do see women who wear hijab in this kinda Arab-originating wrap style, but really, most of them let the top of the hair show; from older women to younger ones exploring their sense of style, it's super common. And this is reflect in this next series of pictures, all of various talk show hostesses:












Finally, I caught this last one when I went home early the other day. This is a children's program. The young hostess was wearing a pink hijab, very properly wrapped with a pink and white jilbab. I guess the younger hostesses still have a responsibility to present a more modest image...



So there you go, a very current taste of what Afghan women are wearing on TV and on the streets as well, although in small numbers and only in Kabul, a little in Herat. But it doesn't go without saying that these women are indeed risking their lives being on TV. I wasn't joking with my earlier comment, as there are several cases I can think of, where women in the media have been murdered and their killers have not been caught or served with justice. The most famous case is that of Shamia Rezaie, who was a veejay on the famous video clip show called HOP. It's said she was killed with one bullet to the head by her brother in her home. Another is Zakia Zaki, she wasn't on TV but was a journalists who produced a popular radio program. In 2005, armed assailants riddled her body with bullets in the middle of the night as she slept with her young son.

In her article, which I later realized is also titled Beyond the Burqa, Zuhar Bahman writes "Most people who, to an untrained Western eye, appear liberated and educated may have had to choose a severe injustice in order to gain and practice freedom that we see." I've heard a lot of bad things said not just about women on TV, but those who work as airlines hostesses and are members of parliament, that they all essentially slept their way to the top. It's weird, like really modern people think this about them. What ever your opinion is on hijab, or how it should be worn, no one deserves to die over, and I think it goes without saying a lot of work still needs to be done when the mentality of, not all, of course, but many men and women is that a woman who operates in the public eye is a shameless prostitute that needs to be murdered for the honor of her family. This is a country where women who are raped are imprisoned rather than the men who rape them.

But I also think, especially as someone who, although i live here, is still on the outside looking in, it's important to remember it takes time to change an entire nation. Bahman writes, "This mentality on women is embedded in the traditions of Afghan society. These customs are extremely hard to change, as most Afghan people and institutions either passively endorse or actively follow them...It is hard to achieve a balance between maintaining tradition and accepting change, especially during a time of war. The first step is for Afghans to recognize the practices within their culture which are against human rights and then find ways of dealing with them that are not too much of a threat to traditional institutions and customs. The international community, too, must recognize that Afghanistan’s traditional systems have survived for hundreds of years and they cannot suddenly be swapped for Western ones. Only working within the existing systems, with patience and understanding, bringing about change slowly, and with subtlety, will succeed." Well said. And for that reason, I have a lot of respect for any woman out here who is trying, and even more respect for the family members, especially men, supporting her. They are the pioneers. It's not about getting rid of Islam, don't get me wrong, but it's about ensuring rights, especially rights guaranteed under Islam, and that women acting on those rights are properly protected.

oooo, am I getting too political? this was suppose to be about fashion! Well, in Afghanistan, there is as of yet no separation of the two. So hopefully this was an interesting peak of fashion Afghanistan style, and i'm looking forward to one day putting up another post that JUST deals with the current fashions on Kabul streets...no politics, i promise...so keep checking back!


wisdom of the underground

Like millions of people, the 33 miners in Chile have captivated me. I have a fear of being caught in confined spaces, to the extent that when I was in Egypt a few years ago, I passed on going inside the pyramids. not that I’m so special structures standing for 5000 years would suddenly collapse b/c I decided to enter them, but you see, that's how uncomfortable I am with the thought!


So I’ve been following the plight of Los 33, and after learning when the rescue would start the first thing I did when I woke Wednesday morning was to run the Al Jazeera app on my phone. I was lucky to catch the first rescue. It was amazing. I cried. So much anticipation, worry, endurance and dedication went into making that moment happen and I was so happy for the people most directly affected. I was literally watching the rescue mission for 17 hours, as I had it on livestation all day at work and continued to watch it till I fell asleep only to wake up and watch the last two rescue workers get pulled out in the morning. It never got old for me to see the men emerge from the rising phoenix.


Some people criticize the media for treating it like a soap opera. Maybe. I wasn't really exposed to that side of it, but I can imagine, especially in Latin America, there was much more focus on Los 33 as a particular cast of characters with their own dramas. There are other criticisms, and this I agree with, that the celebratory jubilation over shadows the whole reason why the miners ended up trapped in the belly of the beast for 70 days: free market politics and profit over safety regulations. There is a lot of truth to it and hopefully critical issues will be addressed seriously across the world, not just Chile, because days after this rescue, fatal accidents are continuing.

I think what got me stuck on watching almost the entire rescue was that each time another man emerged from the tunnel and embraced his loved ones, it was such a triumph of the endurance of the human spirit. That is not something we get to witness every day. It was a successful rescue mission. Another thing we don't get to see often, especially in Afghanistan, where a fellow aid worker, just a week ago, was killed during a failed rescue mission after being held by kidnappers for two weeks. Living in Afghanistan, we all face that reality, not just international aid workers, but Afghans working with international organizations take the risk of one day being killed as a result of their jobs. Or even those who are out of their homes, just working, and happen to be at the wrong place at the wrong time. It's different, but miners too take risks each day, going to work to earn a living and provide for their families, often in settings they know are not the safest.


In her article on-point article for the Guardian titled Why has the Chilean miners' rescue left me so euphoric? Zoe Williams writes "One's instinct is to distrust an emotional response like this, because it's so random. What's a living definition of sentimentality, if not this heightened, secondhand euphoria for the survivors of an accident so unremarkable in a dangerous industry? And yet I feel euphoric. I don't care if it's sentimental." I think as humans, as people, we deserve to see these beautiful moments every once and a while. It's not our victory, and it's not a perfect victory or ending, but it feels good. And we shouldn't miss the chance to learn from them either.


Mario Sepúlveda was the second miner to be rescued.
He has become the showman and media favorite for his jubilance, exuberance and shining personality. It’s true. The energy he brought to the surface was unbelievable. Watching him immediately embrace the euphoria of the moment, watching him literally shine, really moved me. After being rescued, he said something along the lines of anyone who has the chance to call their loved ones before they do something dangerous "please call them...love is the most wonderful thing there is: the love of your parents and your family..."


I’m sure all the miners have wisdom to share, going through such an ordeal, and it’s not even so much wisdom, it's things we all know but forget as we go through life on a day-to-day basis. You forget to be thankful, you forget to thank, you take for granted that if something has to be said, you can just say it later, you think there will always be time later, to make a change in yourself, to try to better, to forgive, to grow, to take care of yourself. But life is precious. No one is guaranteed anything.


Afghanistan has taught me that, but usually through sadness. Chile reminded me of that, but through success, joy, triumph and achievement; where 33 men have been given a second chance. It’s a blessing and a gift, and I hope they are all able to stay grounded as life moves on and they are forced to deal with press, financial issues, jealousy, and the demons that lurk within the memories of dark experiences. But in the meantime, I’m thankful for the chance to watch the whole thing unfold triumphantly, and open myself up to the joy of the moment to learn from it. And I really do keep Mario’s words close to my heart:




Welcome Back to MY Kabul

So I’ve been gone…my last entry I wrote while on holiday in Europe, where I hit Frankfurt, Berlin, Venice and Málaga/Granada (Southern Spain) in 10 days. Things were crazy in my personal life prior to the trip and remained as such when I got back. Then Ramadan came around, it was the best Ramadan I’ve experienced. I really took advantage of the month, beyond fasting, by reading and meditating and reflecting. it gave me a lot of clarity in life, what I want, what I don’t want and how to move forward. Then I took off again for Eid, hit Amsterdam, London, Vienna, NYC and Dubai over 18 days! And since I’ve returned things, overall, have been good ,الحمد لله

It’s not an easy life working in Afghanistan. And I have an unusual situation where my personal life partially operates within Afghan culture, and that can be too much to deal with. It can wear me down and make me not want to delve into the culture, and on this blog, any deeper then my life already forces me too. But in any case, I’ve gotten messages encouraging me to keep this blog going because of the unique side of life I try to show, and I do know there is a value in that, in my little piece of the world wide web. So after 4 months, here I go again attempting to show you the other side of Afghansitan, with something that is by no means the most intellectual or profound observation, or even appropriate by some people's standards, yet it's something I think is a bit funny, a bit shocking, but beyond that, a reality in the Afghanistan of today.


Note: I'm not making any kind of judgment or promotion, I'm just presenting its existence as respectfully and realistically as possible. But if you are sensitive to seeing anatomical enhancement products, please, respectfully, do not read on. Thanks.


The following are products, readily available in several stores across Kabul. Who would ever think in such a conservative and closed society, where a person's reputation matters more than their life, you could get this stuff, not even over a counter, but off a shelf! And it must be profitable b/c otherwise they wouldn’t keep stocking it!





They have a product called "virgin soap" but I didn't catch a picture of it this time. Anyway, this to me is similar to Taliban Glamor Shots posting; it has the essence as was captured very well by the comment Nida made on that post, how Afghanistan is "stuck between two opposing tides - on one hand a very rigid cultural setting and on the other globalization. What results is obsessive narcissism in forms we would have never expected." The availability of these products isn't necessarily the same form of narcissism, but it sure does indicate an increase interests in the self at a very personal level, and the market responding.


I dunno; while in some ways it's funny, it made me think about something not so funny: Afghanistan has one of the world's highest fertility rates, compounded by the average of more than six babies per woman despite years of war and a severe lack of medical care. Back in 2002, a UN maternal study found that in Badakhshan Province alone, the maternal mortality rate was 6,500 deaths per 100,000 live births; the highest ever documented in human history. So it's interesting to observe the above kinds of products are available, but women lack access to correct and relevant information of pre-natal care or health facilities. As exposure to new information increases and the space of (mostly young) people willing to think about such thing expands, I hope they are matched with critical education and access to more vital products and services from a public health perspective...


M.I.A

Dust n Roses has been MIA lately, i admit, and is currently not in Afghanistan



but will return soon, iA, and hopefully will start posting again on a regular tip...

dust and roses live


From Kabul with Love was the first one to notice and mention them, but Checkpoint Kabul managed to cop it first. In any case, I felt moved to post it too.

These photos are from the site of a major coordinated attack back in February, targeting a commercial guest house, mostly used by Indian nationals working in the medical field. The GH was completed devastated, and there hasn't been any real effort to rebuild the place. But in the last few months, and with the arrival of spring, roses have bloomed up all over Kabul, and in the patches of grass remaining from the site.

It hasn't been the easiest of times for me recently, but I have to say seeing the roses reminded me, first of all, of the spirit of the title of my blog, and that in Afghanistan, amidst all the destruction, death, poverty, and pain, beauty still exists, and can thrive....if u let things be (instead of pushing a particular agenda), with just a liiiiittle bit of natural nourishment, and the right elements, things sometimes just have a way of working out as they naturally are suppose to....



Afghan Abodes Part I: Poppy Palaces

While I was away on leave, my project, both office and residence, moved into what is known as a poppy palace. I've been wanting to write about them for a long time, but was waiting until I amassed enough photos. but before I get to that, lemme rewind a bit.

We use to live in Wazir Akbar Khan. You might recognize the name from The Kite Runner, as it's were they lived in the good ol days part of the book. It's a traditionally wealthy neighborhood, paved and gridded, made up of mostly two story homes built in the 60s and 70s. It's tree line, actually quite pleasant. Afghan families still live there, but a lot of embassies have taken over. Our house was the nicest I've ever lived in in Afghanistan. It use to be the Spanish Embassy, it had central heating, double pain windows, a nice lil green area. It felt - normal.

If you go toward the west of WAK, all of a sudden the houses become massive, psychedelic monstrosities, and the roads disappear. This is the neighborhood of Sherpur, the land of NarcoTecture. Sherpur as a residential area is relatively new. It was a cantonment for years, and i mean years. The area is noted in history for the Siege of the Sherpur Cantonment during the second Afghan-Anglo War in the 1890s, where it is estimated up to 3,000 Afghans were murderer by British invaders (hmmmm). From what I know by asking around, the area still remained a cantonment site up until right after the US lead invasion. Actually, you still see tank skeletons lying around....but residences were established - small homes built out of traditional material (mud, maybe). However, after the invasion, the evictions started. and it's documented that most of these small homes were forcefully demolished to set the foundation for what exits today: Afghanistan's wealthiest neighborhood with unbelievably terrible unpaved roads, often covered in raw sewage, were the rent can cost up to $30,000 - a MONTH! check it out:












and they go on

and on.....



So I'm sure pretty much anyone can figure out why "poppy palaces" or narcotechture. It's widely believed these homes have been built by those who made/make their fortunes off of the drug trade. That story, that over 90% of the world's heroin production comes out of Afghanistan, that opium fuels both anti government activity and government corruption, has been covered extensively so i'm not inspired to replicate. From my point of view, life in Sherpur just adds another layer of weirdness to my world these days. living and working in the same place is one tragedy, living and working in a candy coated looking ginger bread neighborhood, where the roads are terrible and garbage is all over the place and the smell of sewage boils up through your nostrils when it's warm, is an even bigger tragedy reflecting the failures this international post-conflict reconstruction project. Plus these things are constructed with haste; i can already see cement crumbling on our Corinthian columns. Honestly, i'm more scared of an earthquake then a rocket when i go to sleep at night.

The first time I went to check out our new digs, i remember looking out a window on the back side of the house and seeing something that really blew my mind; something that when a friend of mine came over the other night and looked out the window made him comment "oh, you have a view of Afghanistan." Doing the research for this post and learning about the land eviction makes this view even more facinating; that among all the high rises, sybolize the contridictions and superficial progress in this nation, a little bit of real life and originality still exists:



Remainders of Sherpur Village! There is actually more to write, but you'll have to wait for Part II of this series....

The Slide

I've been outta Afghansitan for almost a month on R&R and just got back a few days ago...i'm adjusting to being back in the middle of the below image, which captures my world here almost completely.



Known as The Slide, the above is from a powerpoint presentation on counterinsurgency or COIN, strategy in Afghanistan that my work directly supports. Robert Engle, the journalist who first wrote about The Slide (here), states "For some military commanders, the slide is genius, an attempt to show how all things in war – from media bias to ethnic/tribal rivalries – are interconnected and must be taken into consideration. It represents a new approach to war fighting, looking beyond simply killing enemy fighters. It underscores what those fighting wars have long known, that everything matters.

But for others, the diagram represents a fool’s errand that the United States has taken on in the name of national security.

Detractors say the slide represents an assault on logic, an attempt to jam a square peg into a round hole. They say the concept of occupying a foreign nation to protect security at home is expensive, time consuming, ineffective and ultimately leads to the "spaghetti logic" of the slide. They say this slide is what happens when smart people are asked to come up with a solution to the wrong question."

hmmmmmmmm

In the meantime, the New York Times put out an article today using the slide as an example in the way heavy reliance on powerpoint has had dynamic effects in military operations: "Commanders say that behind all the PowerPoint jokes are serious concerns that the program stifles discussion, critical thinking and thoughtful decision-making. Not least, it ties up junior officers — referred to as PowerPoint Rangers — in the daily preparation of slides, be it for a Joint Staff meeting in Washington or for a platoon leader’s pre-mission combat briefing in a remote pocket of Afghanistan." To read the article, click here.

(note: still under the spell of jet lag, hence the heavy quoting and lack of original commentary used in this post!)